We liked Hiroshima instantly. Unlike most other Japanese cities, Hiroshima doesn't have a metro system and everyone gets about by tram. The air is clean with a nice ocean breeze and the roads are wide and fringed with many trees. Everything seemed calm, even at rush hour. It was hard to imagine this was the place where 60 years before an atomic bomb had exploded flattening everything within a radius of 6,000 feet.
We stayed at a wonderful place in Hiroshima called the World Friendship Centre, which was run by two friendly Americans decidated to world peace. Our room was quiet (yay!), we were served a western breakfast (big YAY!), and the hosts gave us maps of Hiroshima... in English -YAAAAY!!! On arrival they told us to head out quickly to see the last night of the peace festival taking place at the Peace Memorial Park. 
We were too late for the procession, but we were greeted with the spectacular sight of thousands of lanterns decorated by children, and glowing paper cranes that have become a symbol on international peace since a little girl, Sadako, tried to fold 1,000 of them in the hope they would cure her of Leukemia, the 'atom bomb' disease. We also walked to see the floodlit A-Bomb Dome which is the half destroyed ruin of the city's Industrial Promotion Hall, the only building directly beneath the blast to survive and a permanent reminder of what occurred 60 years ago.
The following day we went to see the Peace Memorial Museum. Inside the museum there are two main exhibition spaces: in the first there was an explanation of the events leading up to the bomb being dropped and then how the bomb affected the city; the second space detailed the human impact of the bomb. It is hard to explain the chilling feeling of looking at real life artifacts and remnants left behind by those who had passed away. There were displays of melted clothing and photographs of people who were burned so badly that their skin looked like charred coal. One exhibit showed a marble step, which was bleached white by the heat of the blast except for a dark shadow, where a person had been sitting. We left the museum truly hoping that this sort of devastation is never repeated ever again.
It was a lovely sunny afternoon so we took a trip to Miyajima Island which lies 20 minutes southwest of Hiroshima by ferry and is noted as one of Japan's most scenic spots. The good news for us was that our entire trip to the island was free with our Japan Rail passes! The island is famous for its huge floating torii, although when we went the tide was out and it was floating in mud! The island was also swarming with deer, that were in hot pursuit of anyone eating food. We 
found a great little spot on a harbour wall away from the deer and tourists and had a picnic whilst lying in the sun, bliss! Later we explored the town, and climbed a hill with spinning cylinders that you spin for good luck, and watched the sunset over the torii with locals collecting cockles on the mud flats beneath. That evening we ate ramen in a tiny little etsablishment, we could not understand the menu at all but pointing at what the other people in the restaurant were eating seemed to do the trick! 
Our last stop in Japan (and of the whole trip!) was Tsuwano. It was a little out of the way and we kept our fingers crossed it would live up to our expectations. In the end it probably turned out to be our favourite place in Japan and the weather was fantastic!! We were staying in Hoshi Ryokan, the first place we had stayed in that was only a hop and a skip from the train station, a blessing given our heavy bags! The room was marvellous, it was enormous with mountain views, a little balcony and beautifully painted panels. 
Even more gorgeous was the quiet little mountain town, with waterways lining the streets that contained 65,000 colourful carp! We climbed to the castle ruins on top of the mountain, through red torii gates and woods carpeted with wild orchids, to spectacular views over the valley. Not content with relaxing yet we borrowed bikes from the guesthouse and headed out to find the rice paddies we had seen from the mountain top. They were a lovely sight, all layered down the hillside with their still waters reflecting the evening sunlight. We got close up so we could see what rice ACTUALLY looks like, but didn't loiter too long as a local rice farmer was throwing us evils! 
We cycled back just in time for dinner, which was of the impressive 15 different dishes variety. The baked fish and sizzling prawn pot were particular hits! After dinner we treated ourselves with a trip to the local onsen (hot springs); onsen water is believed to have healing powers derived from its mineral content. We spent a good hour relaxing in the various hot pools, the best of all being the outdoor rock pool with the silver moon shining down. A fantastic last day!
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