A fairly relaxed start to the day, and seeing as the clouds were fairly high we decided to climb Chalmundi Hill which was visible from our hotel; it was 1,000 steps to the temple at the summit. We asked reception which way to go to start the walk, but the receptionist was adamant that we take a taxi as we would ‘get cramps in our legs and get very tired’. We get the feeling exercise is not common in India, so just set off ourselves. 
The 1,000 steps were tough, but at Gaz and Rach pace it took us only 45 mins to reach the summit (45 mins less than the guidebook – ha!). Each step was spotted in red and yellow paint by those taking a pilgrimage to the summit. At the top were lots of monkeys, cows and...oh no... the relentless touts. We were somehow ushered into the temple, having our shoes removed and little packs of newspaper pressed into our hands, and followed the flow of people. Inside the maze we also somehow acquired a guide alongside us, and ended up having little red bhindis pressed onto our foreheads and passed lots of drummers. We emerged again into daylight, with the ‘guide’ pressing us for money, as was the chap who took our shoes. We paid both, and they then fought over the money, so we made a quick getaway! Meanwhile we got hounded left right and centre by touts, so decided to escape from the area altogether, and walked the 1,000 steps back down with views over the city, jumping 2 or 3 steps at a time. After lunch at our near deserted resort (benefits of travelling in the monsoon!), we had a quick swim in the chilly pool in the rain, then played some of the hotel games on offer – pool and table football.
At our resort happened to be a world-renowned spa, and the prices weren’t bad, so we decided to treat ourselves to an hour and a half session each of massage and shirodhara (hot oil poured on the forehead for about 30 mins). The spa was pretty luxurious, and we were assigned two staff each. Gaz found the whole experience quite relaxing, although a little surreal having two men massage him at the same time. Rach on the other hand found it all very tickly and/or painful! The Shirodhara was quite something though – a very warm, relaxing feeling on the forehead... we think Gaz fell asleep. Both emerged covered in oil from head to toe. It took Rachel four shampoos to get all the gunk out of her hair!!
After feeling quite relaxed, we decided to up the pace again, and headed to the nearby games centre (very random) to play a very difficult round of mini golf, and then some two-person computer games. All ridiculously cheap!
Rachel nearly fell asleep over dinner.
DAY 2 in MYSORE
No rush, so a big lie in with 92 channels of TV was had. Heaven! After a big breakfast we decided to abandon the lazy start for the manic-ness of Mysore market. Some more savvy bartering on the tuk-tuk front got us into town for almost half the price of the other day. We’re learning!
We got dropped off at KR circle and wandered from there into the odour-filled alleyways of the market. It was an experience that accosted all the senses. We walked down alleys filled with spices, bananas, incense, pots and pans, coconuts, flowers by the tonne and (to Rach’s disgust and Gaz’s piqued interest) hanging meats and freshly decapitated chickens ... Rach legged it after seeing a live chicken being beheaded :-( We dodged and weaved around guys carrying huge loads of everything on their heads. Although there was some light hassle from the locals – only from the incense sellers, strangely – it was a very pleasant experience and we got some great photos, despite not managing to buy anything! We eventually exited the chaos and decided to make a move out of town to the government factories.
Our first stop was the silk factory, but we got there in the middle of a lunch break so decided to walk a kilometre or so to the government’s sandlewood factory. It was fortuitous as we were the only ones there and were escorted around personally by one of the guards. We saw all the machines for pulping the sandlewood and then the huge boilers used to distil it into the very expensive oil (Rs2500 per 10ml!). The smell was awesome and we went straight to the factory shop where we bought incense sticks for ridiculously low prices, but were badgered into giving our change to the guard as he, apparently, didn’t get paid for his work. Definitely suspect, especially when he only took our money ‘when the workers can’t see’!
Another tuk-tuk into town took us to the Tiger Trail again for lunch. Unfortunately, all that was available was a rip-off buffet, so we huffed out and walked into town to change some travellers cheques. Rach stopped off in some jewellery shops to look for a silver anklet, but got out of there pretty quick when she noticed that they were all £500 plus! We finally managed to get a tuk tuk on the meter on the way home, to see what the locals pay. Despite paying a Rs5 surcharge as ‘the location is far away’(!) and the guy taking us the definite long way round, it ended up being cheaper. Meters from now on then!
Lunch, swimming, chilling, reading, playing pool, then we headed over to Planet X again for some more action. First up was go-karting; we paid for 20 laps each, put the comedy shower cap on under the helmet (‘for hygiene, sir’), then got racing. Unfortunately, Rach – being a lady – was given a slower, safer cart, whilst Gaz – being a superstar racer – was given a speed machine. This led to Gaz lapping Rach 4 times in 10 laps. Finally, Rach could take no more and told the guys to give her a faster cart. This led to furious racing over the last 3 laps, with Gaz being unable to get past the uber-angry Batley. Race to be continued! We then went to the bowling alley, stopping en route for some air hockey and motorbike racing. We finished the evening with some cocktails in the deserted bar, then some tasty food brought to us by room service – luxury!
DAY 2 in MYSORE
No rush, so a big lie in with 92 channels of TV was had. Heaven! After a big breakfast we decided to abandon the lazy start for the manic-ness of Mysore market. Some more savvy bartering on the tuk-tuk front got us into town for almost half the price of the other day. We’re learning!
We got dropped off at KR circle and wandered from there into the odour-filled alleyways of the market. It was an experience that accosted all the senses. We walked down alleys filled with spices, bananas, incense, pots and pans, coconuts, flowers by the tonne and (to Rach’s disgust and Gaz’s piqued interest) hanging meats and freshly decapitated chickens ... Rach legged it after seeing a live chicken being beheaded :-( We dodged and weaved around guys carrying huge loads of everything on their heads. Although there was some light hassle from the locals – only from the incense sellers, strangely – it was a very pleasant experience and we got some great photos, despite not managing to buy anything! We eventually exited the chaos and decided to make a move out of town to the government factories.Our first stop was the silk factory, but we got there in the middle of a lunch break so decided to walk a kilometre or so to the government’s sandlewood factory. It was fortuitous as we were the only ones there and were escorted around personally by one of the guards. We saw all the machines for pulping the sandlewood and then the huge boilers used to distil it into the very expensive oil (Rs2500 per 10ml!). The smell was awesome and we went straight to the factory shop where we bought incense sticks for ridiculously low prices, but were badgered into giving our change to the guard as he, apparently, didn’t get paid for his work. Definitely suspect, especially when he only took our money ‘when the workers can’t see’!
Another tuk-tuk into town took us to the Tiger Trail again for lunch. Unfortunately, all that was available was a rip-off buffet, so we huffed out and walked into town to change some travellers cheques. Rach stopped off in some jewellery shops to look for a silver anklet, but got out of there pretty quick when she noticed that they were all £500 plus! We finally managed to get a tuk tuk on the meter on the way home, to see what the locals pay. Despite paying a Rs5 surcharge as ‘the location is far away’(!) and the guy taking us the definite long way round, it ended up being cheaper. Meters from now on then!
Lunch, swimming, chilling, reading, playing pool, then we headed over to Planet X again for some more action. First up was go-karting; we paid for 20 laps each, put the comedy shower cap on under the helmet (‘for hygiene, sir’), then got racing. Unfortunately, Rach – being a lady – was given a slower, safer cart, whilst Gaz – being a superstar racer – was given a speed machine. This led to Gaz lapping Rach 4 times in 10 laps. Finally, Rach could take no more and told the guys to give her a faster cart. This led to furious racing over the last 3 laps, with Gaz being unable to get past the uber-angry Batley. Race to be continued! We then went to the bowling alley, stopping en route for some air hockey and motorbike racing. We finished the evening with some cocktails in the deserted bar, then some tasty food brought to us by room service – luxury!
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