Saturday, July 31, 2010

Temples and coracles in Hampi

Our big day exploring the ruins of Hampi. We decided to go it alone without a guide so that we could explore the ruins in peace. We took the little boat across the river to Hampi and walked to the main temples. On the way we passer a snake charmer, who was playing to a hissing cobra that struck out at him every now and again – eek!


Shoes off at the Virupaksha temple entrance, and we padded around the puddles in the courtyard to explore the impressive structure built in the 1400s. Good fun watching the young monkeys do enormous leaps between the structures! We then climbed Hemakuta Hill, with big slippy boulders (more so because there was a sharp, short rainshower), for nice views over the bazaar. We skidded back down on our bums.

Next we took a long walk along the riverbank to the Vittala Temple, complete with huge stone chariot in the temple complex that apparently used to work. To avoid repeating the walk back we decided to take a coracle (a small dish-shaped boat made out of banana leaves woven together), although if we’d planned ahead we would have taken this downstream, with the wind. Still, the locals seemed happy to take us, so after some bartering we settled on a price, and it turned out a very young lad was going to row us there. What ensued was a relaxing ride, which then turned into a bit of a struggle with lots of splashing and effort when we hit the strong river flow and wind. The boy did his best to roll us around rocks and paddle as hard as he could, and after a while we started to feel sorry for him and said we could just walk – he was still cheeky enough to ask for a tip though!

For lunch we went to the infamous Mango Tree, which has terraced seating under a huge tree, all looking out onto the riverbanks and water buffalo below. We ordered the thali, and sat knees crossed eating it with our fingers. A rather wealthy Indian family were in front of us with some spoilt rotten children, so we talked about how wealth seems too often to ruin things.

After lunch we pottered around all the little stalls in the bazaar, trying on the funny big ‘genie’ trousers which looked ridiculous on us. We then mustered up the last of our energy and took a tuk tuk out to the Royal Complex to see the Lotus Mahal, the impressive elephant stables and the Queens Bath (which in its day looked like it would have been very luxurious!). Fully templed out and exhausted by the heat we headed back across the river, with our driver expectantly waiting for us, and then home for tea on the top of our castle turret and dinner at the hotel with fireflies dancing in the marshes.

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